Day 10: Gokyo Ri

On top of Gokyo Ri with Everest behind me. At 17,600, I have roughly 11,500’ to go.

This cold is still hitting me hard but I really wanted to go up Gokyo Ri. It’s a pretty easy hike… about a mile and 2000 vertical feet. Realistically, If I couldn’t do it, then I might have to reevaluate our plans to go over the Cho La, which is a pass of about the same altitude which we plan to go over in 2 days. In a way, this was a test. Turns out, it was pretty easy. It took 1.5 hours up, and the views were worth it. And keep in mind that I literally chose to go up this valley for this hike.

Getting started. The astute among you may notice that Gallzn is carrying my pack. I think he took pity on me due to my coughing.
On the way up with Everest just poking up behind the foreground peak.
Only 11,500 vertical feet to go
the red line is our approach to Gokyo 2 days ago. The blue line is tomorrow’s short crossing of the glacier to Dragnag, and the yellow line is our rough path to the Cho La, a 17,000’ pass that will return us to the main drag to EBC. Note that the our actual path to the Cho La is hidden behind a ridge. The yellow line just shows its general location.
The Renjo La. I had descended the red line in cloudy weather back in 2009.

Climbing at altitude is all about deprivations. This cold just brought them on sooner than I was expecting. That first night was pretty miserable. As I’m writing this I just had Dal Bhat for dinner and it was the first food that I actually wanted to eat in 48 hours. Assuming that the worst is over, this only put me back one day… these kind of delays are built in to any Himalayan itinerary. No big deal really.

When we got down from Gokyo Ri this morning, I tried to eat lunch. I’ve had good luck with the Pizzas around here… We’re not in NYC but I’ve found that they are pretty easy to get down. Despite going out of my way to specifically say that I only wanted a cheese pizza, this one came with tunafish on it. The timing of this could not have been worse. Did I make fuss? Nope. I ate a few bites and went to bed.

I didn’t puke it up… so I got that going for me.

Ttunafish on a pizza is an abomination in the eyes of god. I’m sure it says that somewhere in Leviticus.

I’ve been warned that the next two nights might not have internet. Hopefully I’lll be back to my normal self for my next post.

Cheers.


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6 responses to “Day 10: Gokyo Ri”

  1. Turner Bredrup Avatar
    Turner Bredrup

    Looking good Tom! I think if God had wanted us to have tuna on pizza, he would have mentioned it on day 5 in Genesis🐟

  2. Meica Avatar
    Meica

    Tom, have been thinking about you daily as I summit Venice’s Rialto Bridge but only just bingeing on these entertaining texts and exquisite photos!! I’m learning so much and am fascinated by this adventure. It sort of blows my mind that we are inhabiting the same planet earth: while I’m in Venice, mankind’s ultimate urban marvel, you are experiencing raw, powerful, majestic nature on a scale that really puts mankind in its place. I’m so sorry you’re sick, but hopefully, as you say, the worst is past for now. Hang in there!! Love from sea level ❤️

  3. margot o'mara Avatar
    margot o’mara

    It looks so magnificent the views are amazing –
    I just talked to Dede to figure out how to write you and she said you had gotten a little sicker – the comment on your blog sounded like you had a cough but now it is different so good luck with that –
    It is just so amazing to be sitting at the top of the world like that I can’t imagine the sensation –gorgeous !!
    love from sea level
    xx

  4. Carol Avatar
    Carol

    I have a friend currently at Everest Base camp. She’s done Everest previously and is just acclimatizing while she waits for a Shish permit and then she’ll do that and double back for Lhotse. Her name is Tracee Metcalfe and she’s in the Imagine Nepal tent site. They have round white tents with a pic of binoculars on them and they’re by a row of red square-ish looking tents. I told her to keep an eye out for you in case she’s still there when you arrive. She asked what camp you’ll be in at base camp, but I didn’t know. She’s about 5’6 w/dark hair. Just in case you want someone to play cards with on a rest day. 🙂

  5. Peter Lee Avatar
    Peter Lee

    Tom,
    Incredible adventure! I am in awe of your tenacity. Thank goodness for clear fresh (albeit thinning) air. Hard to imagine having to climb Himalayas in acrid, nasty, toxic smoke. As if it weren’t hard enough. Incredible story unfolding. I’m so with you…

    P.S. The tuna mac and cheese in the Winds (back in the day) was off the charts delicious. On a Pizza? You are a brave sole, cousin. Stay well, be strong, and climb with the force of nature itself.

  6. Catherine Bredrup Avatar
    Catherine Bredrup

    I hope your cold is better by now. Love all the pictures you are sharing. Sending you lots of good vibes. XO Kit

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