Day 7 + 8: up to Gokyo.

Saying goodbye to the Stupa at Phortse

Gokyo is widely regarded as one of the more beautiful destinations in the Khumbu. I had been here back in 2009, but unfortunately we had bad weather. The views from a bump above the town (Gokyo Ri) are reportedly 5 star, so I intentionally planned my route through here in the hopes of getting to see it with blue sky.. Plus, this allowed me to spend two days hiking up a valley that I haven’t been to before, and I’m always up for exploring.

That’s Cho Oyu. The 6th highest mountain in the world. I’ll spend two days hiking towards it.
Galzn and my porter (who doesn’t speak any English)
Looking down valley

On this day we’re climbing up 14,000 feet. Timberline is around 13, so this is the day that we leave the trees behind… for the next 7 weeks.

The mostly level bump on the ridge not too far above us is the Khonar ridge that we hiked up from Phortse on Day 6.

This is hardcore. 4 Frenchmen riding up to Gokyo… in other words, they are riding uphill on rocky trails sidehilling the whole way, up to 15,000’. Damn.

I was keeping my eye out for them, but unfortunately they must have passed us when I was using the rest room.

OK, yes, there was some level trail.
The Yeti Lodge at Manchermo. You can see Yaks grazing on the slopes above.

This was probably the hardest day so far, although it wasn’t that hard. 5 hours, 6 miles and almost 3000’ of climbing. The lodge is at 14,400’, which is historically where I start feeling the altitude.

There was no internet here so I had the day off.

One of the joys of trekking in Nepal is the burning Yak dung. At least it warms the room. The smell is unique to Nepal (at least for me). Yes, it’s horrible, but I associate it with good memories, and I’ll take it any day over the brush fire smoke from India.

Those piles in the middle of the pasture… that’s firewood.
A sunny morning, and at almost 15,000 feet, I’m finally getting about the haze.

Last night was the first night that I’ve seen a star. It took long enough. It’s been pretty cloudy except for a few hours each morning.

The hamlet of Gokyo

Gokyo is at 15,600’. While I have been blissfully unaware of the altitude up until this point, I now have a headache, loss of appetite and I feel tired and achey. (whose idea was this anyway?) I’m just sleeping the afternoon away, and honestly, it’s a bit of a struggle to write this post. I’ll talk more about the altitude another day. For now, I’m going to sign off and lie down. The plan tomorrow is to hike up Gokyo Ri, which is over 17,000’, and then return to here. If we were going to leave right now, I would pass. We’ll see.


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10 responses to “Day 7 + 8: up to Gokyo.”

  1. Dede Avatar
    Dede

    Wow, I didn’t realize how dramatic the Gokyo scenery was without low clouds! Amazing. And yes, I’m still hoping that those pants accidentally fall into a yak dung stove and burn up.

    1. Tom Bennett Avatar

      As I recall, when Exum gave me these pants, you said “don’t ever wear them in my presence again.” I have kept my word. However they look, they are comfortable.

  2. Alex Gambal Avatar
    Alex Gambal

    Tom, Fantastic,
    Alex

  3. Stan Hickory Avatar
    Stan Hickory

    Way to go my friend!

  4. Tamara Avatar
    Tamara

    Loving the videos and write ups! Thanks for the vicarious trip … sans the altitude headache. Feel well!

  5. Turner Bredrup Avatar
    Turner Bredrup

    I hope the headaches dissipate like the smog did. The scenery is amazing!

  6. Cathy Avatar
    Cathy

    Following your journey Tom. Thank you for pointing out details in your pictures, which I would have missed.

    I’m with Dede- the pants are a fashion fauxpas. 🤪

    1. Dede O'Mara Avatar
      Dede O’Mara

      Haha, thanks for the backup, Cathy!!!

  7. Lyons Avatar
    Lyons

    Views stunning. What’s wrong with your pants?

    1. Dede O'Mara Avatar
      Dede O’Mara

      Your eyes don’t hurt when you look at those pants?!

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